Sunday, March 31, Easter.  Here on Sicily the big Easter chocolate gift is not an Easter bunny, but a giant chocolate Easter Egg.  Several days ago, I had purchased one for us to share.  I hid it in the room this morning but that clever Sandy is pretty good at finding hidden chocolate.  

A chocolate egg and a pretty orchid

Our Easter treat to one another

On the health front things were not improving.  I could still hear absolutely nothing and before dosing up on the pain pills I could tell that the pain was getting worse also.  However, at a site like this, one that I may never visit again we simply needed to power through. I’m so glad that we did.  

I believe to keep all of this organized another timeline is needed. Here again, this information is only as accurate as the online sources I could find.  But even if it is not perfect it is close enough to put the things we are seeing in perspective.  In process of establishing this time line, it didn’t take long to understand that Sicily was, and is, a story of competing cultures.

A Timeline of Sicilian History: Competing Cultures and Dominions

8th to 3rd Millennium BC: The first evidence of human habitation in Sicily emerges during the Neolithic period. Early settlers establish agricultural communities.

3rd to 2nd Millennium BC: Sicily experiences waves of migration, with settlers arriving from the Italian peninsula, Greece, and the eastern Mediterranean (The Phoenicians).

8th Century BC: Greek colonization of Sicily begins, marking the start of significant Hellenic influence on the island. Greek city-states, including Syracuse, Agrigento, and Selinunte, establish thriving colonies, bringing Greek language, religion, and governance to Sicily.  Sometimes included in Magna Graecia. (Greater Greece) 

5th Century BC: Sicily becomes a battleground for Greek city-states and Carthaginian forces vying for control of the island. The devastating conflict culminates in the Sicilian Expedition (415-413 BC), a failed Athenian campaign that leaves Sicily fractured and weakened.

4th Century BC: Carthage emerges as the dominant power in Sicily, establishing control over much of the island. However, Greek influence remains strong in eastern Sicily, where Syracuse continues to thrive as a center of Greek culture and learning.

3rd Century BC: The First Punic War (264-241 BCE) between Rome and Carthage erupts, with Sicily serving as a key battleground. Rome emerges victorious, annexing Sicily as its first province outside the Italian peninsula.

1st Century BC: Sicily becomes a prosperous Roman province, benefiting from Roman infrastructure, trade networks, and agricultural reforms. The island's cities flourish, with Roman influence shaping Sicilian society, economy, and governance.

5th Century AD: The fall of the Western Roman Empire leads to the conquest of Sicily by the Vandals, followed by the Ostrogoths in the 6th century. These Germanic tribes bring new cultural influences to Sicily.

9th Century AD: Arab forces from North Africa invade Sicily, initiating a period of Arab rule known as the Emirate of Sicily.

11th Century AD: The Norman conquest of Sicily begins, led by Roger I of Sicily. Norman rule brings stability and religious tolerance to Sicily.

12th Century AD: The Kingdom of Sicily is established, encompassing Sicily and parts of southern Italy. Under Norman, Hohenstaufen, and later Angevin rule.

13th Century AD: The Sicilian Vespers (1282) marks a turning point in Sicilian history, as the island rises up against Angevin rule. The War of the Sicilian Vespers leads to the division of Sicily between the Angevins and the Aragonese.

15th Century AD: The Spanish Crown gains control of Sicily, ushering in a period of Spanish rule that lasts until the 18th century. Sicily remains a Spanish possession, albeit with varying degrees of autonomy, until the War of the Spanish Succession.

18th Century AD: The Treaty of Utrecht (1713) cedes Sicily to the House of Savoy, marking the beginning of Sicily's union with the Kingdom of Sardinia. Sicily undergoes significant political and social changes during this period, as the island becomes part of the unified Kingdom of Italy in the 19th century.

20th Century AD: Sicily experiences periods of economic hardship, political upheaval, and social unrest throughout the 20th century. The rise of organized crime, particularly the Sicilian Mafia, poses significant challenges to Sicilian society and governance.

21st Century AD: Sicily remains an integral part of Italy, renowned for its rich history, diverse culture, and stunning landscapes. Efforts to combat organized crime and promote economic development continue, as Sicily looks towards the future while honoring its storied past.

Just the effort of writing out this timeline, I think gives me a better understanding of the the things we see around us.  

Today we visited the Valley of the Temples, the ancient relics of the once great city state of Agrigento.  In its prime Agrigento was the third largest city in the Greek world, behind only Syracuse and Athens in population.  Agrigento, an ancient Greek city-state located on the southern coast of Sicily, known in antiquity as Akragas, played a significant role in the Greek colonization of Sicily and emerged as one of the most prosperous and powerful cities in the Mediterranean world.

Agrigento was founded around 582 BC by Greek colonists from Gela and Rhodes, led by the legendary figure of Telemachus. Situated atop a plateau overlooking the sea, Agrigento quickly grew into a thriving urban center, thanks to its strategic location, fertile land, and access to important trade routes. 

By the 5th century BC, Agrigento had reached its zenith under the rule of tyrants (not as negative as it sounds). The city's wealth and power were reflected in its magnificent architecture, including the renowned temples of Concordia, Juno, and Hercules, which still stand as iconic symbols of ancient Greek civilization. Agrigento became known for its cultural achievements, artistic patronage, and democratic governance, earning a reputation as the "most beautiful city of mortals”.

Despite its prosperity, Agrigento faced internal strife and external threats, particularly from Carthage, its rival across the sea. The city became embroiled in the power struggles of the Sicilian Greek city-states, leading to intermittent conflicts and alliances with neighboring cities like Syracuse and Akrai. Agrigento's fortunes began to wane in the late 5th century BC, as the city-state became caught in the crossfire of the Peloponnesian War between Athens and Sparta.

In 406 BC, Agrigento fell to Carthaginian forces led by Hannibal Mago, (not directly related to the more famous Hannibal that invaded the Italian peninsula with his elephants) marking the end of its independence and the beginning of a new chapter in its history. The Carthaginians razed much of the city and imposed their rule over Sicily, but Agrigento continued to exist as a shadow of its former self under Carthaginian and later Roman dominion. Despite its decline, Agrigento's cultural legacy endured through the centuries, influencing subsequent generations of artists, scholars, and historians.

Sandy and I walked from our hotel to the temples of Juno, Concordia and Hercules.  There were some reconstructive work on the temples.  Columns that over the millennia toppled over were put back up using the (mostly) original stone.  Where possible the horizontal structure across the top of the columns, the entablature, were also repositioned.  In all cases what is still standing in its original position is being constantly maintained and reinforced where needed.  In this area of the world where earthquakes are so predominant, it is amazing that even a single column could stand for over 2,500 years.  Standing amongst these temples it was easy for us to imagine vibrancy and importance of ancient Agrigento.  There are other Greek ruins in the area, but none as significant as these in the archeological park. It is the most complete collection of ancient Greek structures outside of Greece.

The temple of Juno

As the ancients would have approached

Most of the standing pillars are reconstructed, but with the original stone (no mixing and matching, some concrete repair)

The metal brace and modern concrete show maintenance efforts to protect the original structure.

The Temple of Concordia as viewed from the Temple of Juno

Temple of Concordia built by 40,000 Carthaginian Slaves

Temple of Concordia as the people of ancient Agrigento would have approached it. 

The view over the valley from the Temple of Concordia

The pillars of the Temple of Hercules

Eight of these giant pillars reconstructed and standing exactly in their original position

Sandy sitting amidst the ruins of Hercules' Temple.  She wanted me to make it clear she was not responsible for ruining the Temple

This one column, what is left of it, has never tumbled over

despite earthquakes, wars and erosion

One of the colossi that used to act as a pillar on the Temple of Hercules.  This is the only temple in Agrigento that did not employ slaves in the building of it.

Following our walk of about four and a half miles, (a little short of five hours) we went straight to the hotel terrace and ordered two Negronis.  There are few things better than having the classic Italian cocktail, while in Italy.  Then we moved up to the outdoor restaurant where we still were sitting in the shadow of the Temple of Concordia while enjoying a final sunset in the special place. 

The Negronis that awaited our return to the hotel

One quarter of Sandy's little club sandwich, we ate off of this for a couple of days

Sandy's singing waiter.  That wasn't his job, he was just a waiter, that sang.  He liked Louis Prima