Cyprus boasts a rich archaeological record, revealing evidence of human presence since the Neolithic era. There is archaeological evidence that suggests early Cypriot cultures were co-evolving with the famed Minoan culture of Create. These first settlers established vibrant communities, and successive civilizations, including the Phoenicians, Assyrians, and Persians, and left indelible imprints. Influences from Hellenistic and Roman cultures further shaped Cyprus. The island, soon enough, became a prominent center for trade, culture, and religion. With the fall of Rome the Byzantine Empire, Crusaders, and Ottoman Empire successively ruled Cyprus. Following World War I the British ruled Cyprus as a colony. British rule ended with Cypriot Independence in 1960 only to be followed with a Turkish intervention into civil matters that has left the island divided into the the Northern portion, primarily Turkish, and the Southern portion, primarily Greek with a United Nations guarded buffer zone since 1970. “Northern Cyprus” has declared itself independent from the rest of the island though the only country in the world that recognizes them is Turkey. The rest of Cyprus and the rest of the world refers to northern Cyprus as “Occupied Cyprus.
After a coffee filled morning looking out over the Mediterranean, we found ourselves drawn to the gritty charm of Zygi, the little town our AirBnB is in. Zygi is a fishing town. Aside from the fish tavernas there is no tourist infrastructure, and without the likes of AirBnB we could not stay here. As we walked through the town the air carried the unmistakable scent of salt and the allure of a village completely tethered to the sea. It is a place where the rhythm of the waves set the pace of the town, and the creaking hulls of weathered fishing boats provided the white noise for the town.
They fish at night here so the marina was full and the rhythmic symphony of boats gently rocking in the harbor welcomed us. Fishing vessels of various sizes, adorned with colorful, weathered nets painted a picturesque scene against the backdrop sea. With their boats stowed away for the day several of the cafés were the gathering place for multigenerational Marlboro smokers. Sitting, sipping on coffees, smoking, talking and laughing. Sandy and I stopped and had a snack at one of these cafés. We could not understand the Greek they were speaking but the laughter needed no interpretation.
In early afternoon, we drove (on the wrong side of the road) to the archeological site of Ancient Amathus. Believed to be one of the oldest settlements on Cyprus, the ruins of are primarily from the Hellenistic and Roman periods. We could climb through the ruins imagining the vibrant cultures that had existed and thinking about day to day life of the people living in what was then also a fishing village. I found it amazing that the Roman Baths, without any reconstruction still held water. We couldn’t help but feel a profound connection to the generations that once called this coastal marvel home.
Capitals of all styles Ionic, Doric, and Corinthian
Back in Zygi, Sandy and I walked to one of the quayside Fish Tavernas for dinner. We had a wonderful seafood feast and Sandy was entertained by watching all the inter-relational taking place in the restaurant. It was all in Greek, but it was still easy to understand
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