Island Hopping 2024: Toledo, El Greco, and a Partridge

Toledo set to work winning back our hearts after a hectic introduction yesterday.  After coffee and crumpets, we ventured into the vibrant heart of Old Toledo.  We wound our way through the maze of cobbled streets in search of the El Greco museum.  Astonishingly enough we found it easily with the aid of Google Maps.  I don’t know how we ever traveled without GPS for both driving and walking.

To get to our apartment, first we walk down this narrow road

Then up this road to the big wooden doors

I then unlock and open the little door  that is cut out of the big door

We walk through this little courtyard

Which leads to this bigger courtyard

Then up two very tall stories of these twisty stairs

Down this outdoor hallway

then unlocking the apartment door

There you have it.   The way to our Toledan home sweet home

Have I mentioned the narrow streets?  There are some narrower than this!

El Greco, (The Greek), whose real name was Domenikos Theotokopoulos, was a Greek painter who settled in Spain and became known for his distinctive style and profound religious works. His portraits of the apostles and Christ are notable for their unique interpretation and emotional intensity.  He spent many years in Toledo and is very much associated with the city.  If it is true that imitation is the purest form of flattery then El Greco must have been constantly walking around red-faced with embarrassment as the museum had many examples of his contemporaries  following his revolutionary style.  His apostolate series, which hangs in the museum, exemplifies El Greco's style, which is characterized by elongated forms, expressive gestures, and a vivid use of color.  These were all departures from the norm and all being furiously copied by his contemporaries.

The outdoor lobby to the El Greco Museum

St. Mathew, part of the Apostolate Series

One of those crazy long pointy fingered hands

Look closely those brush strokes are 400 years old.  

Sandy even imagines the hand holding the brush

                                                     El Greco's Apostolate Series

We made a quick stop at a grocery store to pick up Spanish ham, Manchego Cheese and a fresh baguette for a late lunch. 

Lots of fresh produce

Lots of delicious ham

A feast for kings... a baguette, jamon, and Manchego cheese

Later I walked through the streets, enjoyed the sights, made a dinner reservation and scored some pastel de nata (a Portuguese treat).  It has been a pretty good day in Toledo.

The Cathedral

A depiction of Toledo, mirrors a painting by El Greco

Some pretty good street musicians

Tonight we decided to take a nighttime stroll through Toledo, Spain, because, you know, when in Toledo, right? The cobblestone streets were charmingly uneven, making me question the fashion choices of medieval folks who probably didn't have orthopedic shoes.

We ate at La Cave Restaurant—charming little joint that I had made 8:00 dinner reservations…that is their opening time. The place did not start filling up until about 9:30.  This place was just what we wanted… stone walls and dim lights, we felt like we had walked straight into a castle's wine cellar. It had that rustic, old-world feel that makes you appreciate dining in 500 year old buildings

I had partridge. Yes, partridge, one of the “must have” foods in Toledo. I thought, "Do people still eat partridge?" Apparently, in Toledo, they do. It was like a fancy poultry reunion on my plate. Juicy, flavorful, and I couldn't help but wonder if partridges are happy to be on such an exquisite menu.

These food pictures are dedicated to my friend Andrew who completely understands the relationship of the local food to the local culture and travels with that in mind.  Above is a Toledan must-have dish, roasted partridge

Sandy's suckling pig

Chillin' in the Cave

If you've got to wait, this was not a bad place to do it

Entrance to our restaurant

Sandy had the suckling pig. It had this crispy skin that made me question why all pigs don't aspire to be suckling pigs. I mean, who doesn't want to be crispy and delicious? The chef probably whispered sweet nothings to that pig before it hit the oven.  Perhaps PETA would not have approved this dish, but Sandy sure did.

Of course, there was wine involved. When in Toledo, right? We sipped on well aged wines that probably have their own medieval tales to tell.  It was a grape extravaganza.  A properly aged Rioja wine should not be missed.

Beyond all this our waiter, João, who has lived in Brazil, North Carolina, Italy and Spain was a delight.  He was clever in English and made us laugh. When I told him that you can tell when some one is comfortable with a language when he can be witty, he informed me that there was a level of competence above that…talking to girls, and he felt he struggled with that in all four languages.  When I asked him if it was appropriate to take food that we did not finish back to the apartment; he explained to me that the Spanish have a lot of rules. “It is inappropriate not to take a four hour nap in the middle of the day”, “it is inappropriate to eat dinner before 9:30pm”, but as for taking the leftovers home, “you’re good to go”.  This guy was a delight and I’m sure he will succeed in whatever he ends up doing (he’s now studying architecture).

Our shared desert

João making me laugh

After this culinary escapade, we strolled back through Toledo under the moonlight and maybe even a little rain (but that didn’t matter). The stars were out, and I couldn't help but wonder if they were judging our food choices. Toledo does have this timeless charm; it's like stepping back in time but with better hygiene.

So, there you have it, – a night of partridge, suckling pig, and strolling through Toledo. Sometimes, you just have to let the cobblestones be your guide to pleasure.

Nighttime in Toledo, magical

Cathedral

Reservation at 8:00pm, food hits the table 9:30pm (of course by now I'm on my second glass of wine) desert and coffee at 11:00pm, even in Toledo the crowds have thinned out by then.