Island Hopping 2024: Toledo, Alcázar, Visigoths, Iglesia San Tomé

Our first steps today were all uphill.  We were going to visit the Alcazar de Toledo, the fortress of Toledo.  Formidable Alcazar, a sentinel perched atop the city has borne witness to centuries of triumphs and tribulations.  Built by the Romans as a palace in the third century then after 711 under Moorish rule Alcazar became a fortress.  A place to both guard the city and to keep an eye on the city’s Spanish occupants.  After the Christian Reconquest in the 11th century the fort underwent extensive modifications to become the residence of the Spanish monarchs.  Skip forward to 1936 and the Spanish Civil War, and Alcazar became the symbol of Nationalist (Franco) resilience, as they withstood a three month siege against the Republicans.  Alcazar itself could not be visited today, however, the excellent museum was free to visit and full of information.

Don Quixote and Sancho Panza looking onto Alcazar.  Perhaps considering an attack

Medieval foundations on Moorish foundations on Roman foundations 

Medieval protection

View over the countrysideside from one of the terraces.  They could certainly see the enemy coming

Outside view of the fortress

We visited the  Visigoth Museum, housed in the deconsecrated Church of San Román, to unravel the enigma of Toledo's Visigothic legacy. Nestled within the heart of the city, the museum unveiled artifacts that transcended the boundaries of time. Intricate jewelry, ornate weaponry, and enigmatic votive objects testified to the sophisticated civilization that once thrived in this region. The Visigoth Museum became a portal to an era when Toledo was the epicenter of Visigothic power.  Most descriptions and signage were in Spanish only, but the museum was laid out such that it didn’t matter. This is a very good museum.

Arches throughout the old church reflect Moorish and Christian flourishes

Learning more and more about the much forgotten Visigoths

Visigothic Christian Symbols and writings

Sandy says "This is the same hair-do that I had in high school"

Our last stop was a visit to Iglesia San Tomé (doubting Thomas), this was a comparatively humble sanctuary but it concealed a masterpiece that defies temporal confines. We walked with hushed reverence as we approached El Greco's "The Burial of the Count of Orgaz." The play of light on the canvas imbued the scene with an ethereal quality, capturing a moment suspended between the earthly and the divine. There is so much to see and think about in the one painting, a harmonious coexistence of artistic brilliance and spiritual introspection.  Sandy already knew a lot about this painting.  She helped me understand the importance of it.  I was  impressed with her knowledge considering her last history of art class was more than 50 years ago.

The apostle Thomas, doubting Jesus

"The Burial of Count Orgaz" Considered one of El Greco's major works

Typical throughout Europe, some of the best art museums are in cathedrals

We ended our busy day at a tapas bar.  I do not know why every country doesn’t have a tapas culture.

This was voted Toledo's best Tapas several years ago.  

Squid ink turns the waffle black, little pieces of fried calamari on top.

Sandy has put a pretty good dent in Spain's olive supply

Our waiter/bartender, he's helped us out several times during our Toledo stay