Thursday, September 29, 2022

Galway, Ireland: Clonmacnoise; Oysters and Pub Music

I was up early enough to walk around the town this morning.  It was a pleasant walk, with few other people and the beautiful Irish views.




I got back to the hotel in time to set our bags outside the door and then go down to the full Irish Breakfast which seems always to be toast, eggs, bacon which is more like ham, black and white pudding (black pudding is sausage made with the inclusion of blood, white pudding forgets the blood, I have found I enjoy them both, at least while I am in Ireland), and sautéd mushrooms.  I have been apprehensive about this bus tour, but so far it has been quite pleasant.



Clonmacnoise is one of the most famous monastic sites in Ireland – it is an ancient ruins of a monastic order. Located along the River Shannon near the village of Shannonbridge, Clonmacnoise was founded by Saint Ciaran in the mid-sixth century (544) where it became a great center of religion and learning.  This monastery, at its peak of prestige was visited by scholars and pilgrims from all over the world. 

Many historical manuscripts, including the 11th-century Annals of Tighernach, which is the oldest document written in the Irish form of Gaelic, and the 12th-century Book of the Dun Cow, were written here. Pope John Paul visited here in 1979, showing that the ruins and the land around the ruins are still venerated.  

Today Sandy and I, along with the Folk Legacy Trio Tour (FLTT) stopped at these ruins.  While viewing the three high crosses, a cathedral, seven churches, and two round towers we could not help but feel a deeper sense of Irish history and the role Christianity played in it.


The original monastic chapel and the final destination of masses of 
pilgrims

When on a group tour ....

An Irish High Cross

We stopped in the equivalent of a truck stop for lunch.  Rick Dougherty of the FLT sat down with us.  I became even more impressed with him.  He said that he doesn't like to trade on his fame as part of the Limelighters,  then the Kingston Trio and now the Folk Legacy Trio.  He said that he believes that he is a very good tenor and a good guitarist, but he knows that there are lots of people with those qualities and the reason he has been successful is luck.  Being in the right place at the right time.  For that reason when he joins a jam session in some small bar he prefers that he is not introduced with his credentials.  He takes far more satisfaction from people appreciating what he plays than appreciating him because of his credentials.  


In the evening Sandy and I had the evening to ourselves.  From our hotel, the Park House, we walked about fifteen minutes to Oscars, a seafood restaurant.  This is one of those restaurants that is elevating the bar for Irish food.  I had a seafood paella prepared entirely from the local catch.  Sandy had prawns.  Afterwords we walked down the street to the Crane Pub.  Timing and luck is everything.  As we walked in they had just opened up the section of the bar that the Trad Musicians were going to be playing in.  Sandy and I picked our seats and before long the musicians sat right next to us.  Throughout the night, between pieces, the musicians carried on conversations with us.  They seemed as interested in us and our travels as we were interested in them and their talent.  It was a very good evening.






 



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