We started our day at the magnificent Giles' Cathedral. It is still an active Presbyterian church, but it is as much that as it is the Scottish National Monument. The walls are covered with paintings, plaques, and stained glass windows depicting saints, kings, and poets. The Cathedral, like everything else on the Royal Mile is full of tourists, but is so worth dealing with the crowds just to take it in. I enjoyed it all, but was especially impressed with the Thistle Chapel, which celebrates those who have been accepted into the Order of the Thistle. This is the most exclusive of the Scottish Orders reserved for the bravest solders and most gifted poets.
Sandy in front of another portrayal of Robert Fergusson: Burns stated Fergusson was his inspiration.
The ceiling of the thistle chapel
After Giles Cathedral we crossed the parking lot where we found the gravesite of John Knox under parking space 23. In death I doubt if he really cares, though there must be some satisfying revenge for Mary Queen of Scots who is in eternal rest in a much more dignified location at Westminster Abbey in England. In the old Parliament house, which is now an active courthouse, Sandy got to see some advocates (lawyers) wearing their robes and white powdered wigs. I think she would have looked nice if she appeared in court like that. The American justice system suffers for this fashion omission.
Approaching lunchtime we stopped at the Cannonball Café directly outside of the gates to Edinburgh Castle. (Pro travel tip, this is a "do not miss" location, try scoring the corner booth that overlooks the Royal Mile.) From the wide Scotch list I chose a Speyside, with an accompaniment of oysters. I could not have felt more Scottish if I had been wearing a kilt. Sandy had a hard cider and roasted mixed nuts. This is the perfect place to wait for your reservation time to get into Edinburgh castle.
While the Kings and Queens seemed to enjoy the less blustery Holyroodhouse at the bottom of the Royal Mile, the much larger Edinburgh Castle is not something to be ignored. Casting a foreboding shadow over Edinburgh it is easy to see why this spot was coveted by both the English and the Scots. Along with being a popular tourist destination the castle is still an active military post, military museum, and depository of the Scottish Crown Jewels which are on display but, sadly not allowed to be photographed.
Finally in the evening we went out to catch some traditional Scottish Music at the Ensign Ewart Pub, established in 1680. Sadly, by the time we arrived the pub was packed. We chose instead, to go back to the Cannonball with its spectacular view down the now mostly emptied of tourists and pleasantly lighted Royal Mile. This time I enjoyed a heavily peated Islay Scotch. (The peatyness of the Islays is very prominent and take some getting used to, but, I am trying to tame that beast.) Around 10pm, actually at exactly 10pm because that is when the bar closed and asked us to leave, we walked back down the Mile towards the hotel. As we walked past the Ensign Ewart, I poked my head in. The traditional music was still being performed and now there was room for us. We went in, found a seat and enjoyed the music. I felt the it would be impolite not to have a Scotch, so I did. This time a Highland Single Malt.
I know it seems like I may have been drinking a lot of Scotch Whisky today, and I probably have, but to my good fortune, drinking alcohol doesn't affect me, I just get smarter and funnier!
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