Wednesday, April 17, 2024

Island Hopping 2024: Giarratana, first attempt at the Grotta dei Santi.

Tuesday April 16:  Into every vacation a little rain must fall.  Today, our grand quest to uncover the mysteries of the Grotta dei Santi was thwarted by none other than the fickle hand of fate, disguised as a relentless cold drizzle. We have discovered the existence of this “secret” archaeological site quite by accident.  When we first drove to our AirBnB we saw a group of teenagers hanging around a wide spot in a back road.  While exploring on another occasion we again came upon a group of people milling around the same spot.  Sandy went to Google Maps and saw a notation about a grotto, which was somewhere near where we were. These pilgrims were obviously gathering here and hiking somewhere around the area.  We decided then that we would come back and explore it ourselves.  At home, we searched our two Sicily travel books but could find nothing.  That made it even better, we have discovered this place ourselves.  But, not today, the Sicilian weather dashed our hopes of glimpsing the ancient fresco like a damp matchstick in the wind.

Photos of Grotta dei Santi, from the road

Grotto formed by walling in the front of a overhanging rock shelter

The grotto is still somewhat hidden in a small gorge surrounded by crops and olive groves.

Weather radar as the rain was headed in.

The rain falling on the window of the Café we frequent

As we got out of the car in the ever-present and increasing rain, I started heading down the muddy path.  Sandy said “you"re not going there in this weather are you?”  In my head I heard myself say “Of course I am.”  But what my actual voice said was “Of course not, dear, I’m only testing to see how muddy this path can get.”

Honest, I am only testing the path for future use.

Though we may have been denied entrance to the hallowed cave, the history of the Grotta dei Santi is a tale worth telling, even in the face of inclement weather. Legend has it that this sacred cavern was once a refuge for early Christians (300 to 500 AD) seeking solace from persecution. Their clandestine gatherings would have been dimly illuminated by the flickering glow of torchlight.

The history of the Grotta dei Santi is a tale worth knowing.  And, we are committed to getting down to the grotto before our time in Garratana ends.  Not being as tough as those early Christians, we retreated to the warmth and comfort of our temporary home where we spent the afternoon watching the grey skies and relaxing. 


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