Island Hopping 2024: Giarratana, Giarratana still has new things to offer

Sunday April 28:  Glenn and Sue had to be back at the Catania airport at 2:00PM.  Before leaving we had time to walk around Giarratana where we ran into an artist putting murals on several buildings.  We enjoyed his work and his conversation.  

The mural artist, Giuseppe Pisana

His murals are all from scenes he has seen around Giarratana

What boy has not done something like this

What cat has not done something like this

Walking down the street I had to look twice to be sure this was not a real dog

A little later on, in that same walk, we became part of a family reunion of twenty or so people who had been given access to church number one.  Again, we enjoyed the conversation with the family (mostly in English as several members had spent time in the United States), and the access to the church.  

The family was given access to the church, as they had come from all over Italy and they then invited us to take a look.  What an outstanding church.  Amazing that Giarratana a town of 3,000 people has three churches like this.

In Sicilia any church worth its prayer candles has its relics. In this church the relic is a full mummified body!

I loved the ceiling art

A different characterization of Christ

A 3d relief of the last supper

Island Hopping 2024: Giarratana, Mt. Etna

Saturday April 27:  With Glenn and Sue, we have visited many of the places that we have already been to and seen.  To us, this is neither redundant or boring.  We know that embarking on a journey to revisit a cherished destination with new travel companions brings forth a delightful sense of anticipation and rediscovery. As we venture back to a familiar place, we find ourselves captivated by the prospect of sharing its wonders and intricacies with our companions, eager to witness their reactions and create new memories together. And, despite having explored the site before, each return visit offers a fresh perspective and renewed appreciation for its beauty and significance. In the company of loved ones, the journey becomes not just a mere repetition but part of the vibrant quilt of shared experiences and newfound revelations that this three and half month trip has stitched together, reaffirming the timeless magic of travel and the bonds it fosters.

A clear view of the active volcano

Today was such a trip of rediscovery.  In the six days that they have been here, they have not had a good view of Mount Etna.  The two opportunities that they did have (their arrival at Catania, and their day-trip to Taormina) were both cloudy days which obscured the view of the volcano.  Today was a clear, mostly cloud free day, so we set off for the Mount Etna region.  We followed our earlier plan of encircling the volcano in a counter clockwise drive, (when viewed from above).  We stopped in Zafferana Etnea, drove well up the volcano to Rifugio Citelli and Etna Nord.  We then stopped by Bronte back on the western base of the mountain. 

This was a dramatic volcano picture

There are never enough pictures of the volcano

The views were breathtaking and the food, as always, in Sicily, very good.

The garden, the church, the volcano

These Sicilians and their roses

Lunch at a café between the volcano and the sea

Later on Gelato at another volcano town

Returning to Giarratana we tried yet another, highly recommended pizzeria, Puoju re Disi.  

Pizza for lunch, Pizza for dinner, is Sicily a great country or what?

Island Hopping 2024: Giarratana, Ortigia, A New Restaurant

Friday April 26:  Another sunny chilly day in Sicily.  Our target for the day was the old city of Syracuse.  This was our second trip but Glenn’s and Sue’s first into Ortigia.  Our return to the island was a delight, made even more special by sharing the experience with my son and his wife who were new to its charms. We started our day immersing ourselves in the lively atmosphere of the local market, where vibrant colors and exotic scents tantalized our senses. The ancient Temple of Apollo, standing stoically amidst the bustling streets, offered a glimpse into the island's rich history.

Market Fish

Market Artichokes

Pistachios from Bronte

The Temple of Apollo

The Temple of Apollo

While Glenn and Sue set out to explore on their own Sandy and I indulged ourselves in the sweet refreshment of granita at an outdoor café overlooking the Fontana di Dianna, savoring each spoonful of icy lemon goodness under the warm Sicilian sun.  It was a very European, and a very Sicilian moment.

The pleasant streets of Oritigia

The fountain we were gazing upon while enjoying our granita

Every little alley was inviting

Energized and refreshed, we made our way to Castello Maniace, its imposing walls echoing with tales of centuries past.  Castello Maniace, stands as a testament to the island's rich and tumultuous history. Built in the 13th century by the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II, it served as a formidable fortress guarding the strategic port of Syracuse. 

During its storied history, Castello Maniace witnessed numerous conflicts and conquests, including the struggles between the Byzantine Empire, the Arab rulers, and the Norman invaders. Its strategic location made it a coveted prize for many ambitious rulers seeking to control the Mediterranean.

The Castle

The Castle

This headless man with wings (Daedalus)

Is being held to the ground by this mysterious hand

As the day waned, we found ourselves drawn to the waterfront, where we sat in quiet contemplation, mesmerized by the rhythmic dance of the waves. 

Sitting on the waterfront, gazing out into the shimmering bay, it was easy to let our imaginations wander back in time. With the gentle lapping of the waves against the ancient stone walls as our soundtrack, we pictured the bay bustling with activity, bustling with ancient Greek and Roman triremes (ships) coming and going. The salty breeze carried whispers of tales from antiquity, of merchants trading exotic goods, of sailors embarking on epic voyages, and of conquerors plotting their next conquests. In that tranquil moment, amidst the timeless beauty of Ortigia, the echoes of history felt palpable, inviting us to step back in time and become part of the rich tapestry of Sicily's storied past.

The waterfront of Otrigia

Mermaid and Merman sculptures along the waterfront

Waterfront

The quiet pathway along the Mediterranean Sea

But all things must end and soon we found ourselves driving back to Giarratana.  In the evening we went to a new restaurant, the Locanda Angelica where along with some good pasta we started feeling more and more like locals as we ran into and talked with people we have met In town over the last four weeks. 

Entrance to the Locanda Angelica

  A young man we have befriended in the town, and his niece 

This is how Sandy and I look after eating a lot of pasta

Island Hopping 2024: Giarratana, Franco’s Mom, Ragusa Ibla

Thursday April 25:  Our AirBnB host, Franco, texted us last night.  He said that his mother (78 years old) was making some focaccia and that she wanted to know if we wanted some.  “Of course we do!”  He said that he would bring them over at 11:30AM today. 

We hit the Café, picked up some wine and got back to the house around 11:00AM.  True to his word Franco was here at 11:30 with a large platter of focaccia, half filled sausage and broccoli, and half filled with pasta and ragú.  We asked Franco to stay and have a glass of wine with us.  Of course he accepted, he’s Sicilian.  This was a thoroughly Sicilian experience from the delizioso food and the local wine to the friendship and laughter, we felt as if, for a few moments, we were locals spending time with our Giarratana friends.  

Franco and us

A little vino

Franco's MaMa is a very good cook

After Franco left the four of us we drove to the medieval town of Ragusa Ibla.  Sandy and I had been there before but this was a first for Glenn and Sue.  We enjoyed showing it to them.  After about an hour, while Glenn and Sue continued to explore the town, Sandy and I found a little gelatoria where we both enjoyed some lemon granita.  The air was still cold, but in the sun it was pleasant.  After meeting up again we returned to Giarratana where we spent the evening talking, laughing and eating more of the focaccia.

Roses growing in the park at Ragusa Ibla

Glenn and me

Pleasant paths in the park

A small (by Sicilian standards) church in the town

The town (old town) of Ragusa Ibla, the new town of Ragusa Superiore is much larger and less picturesque.

Granita is never a bad idea

Island Hopping 2024: Giarratana, Raining in Sicily

Wednesday April 24:  Today Glenn and Sue had scheduled a cooking class in Taormina, which is about two hours away.  Having to leave at 6:00AM to assure that they could get there on time, we handed them the keys to the car last night and said “Don’t wake us.”

The day here was very cool and very rainy so we stayed at the house all day reading, putzing around and later cooking a ravioli and tortellini dinner.  

Glenn and Sue returned around 7:30PM.  They shared their cooking class and Taormina adventure with us.  We made plans for tomorrow and that was about it. 

The only photo we took yesterday, me handling the recycling duties.  However, it does show the rain, and my dress indicates how cool it was.

Island Hopping 2024: Giarratana, Showing the town to Glenn and Sue, Return to the Grotto

Tuesday April 23:  Today Glenn and Sue opted to stay closer to home.  That’s OK, we know how to have a good time in Giarratana, a little town, that never lets us down.  

As always, we started at the café, walked to the three churches and then throughout the town, stopped at two meat shops,  two very small grocery stores and then back to the AirBnB.  

There are many rose plants throughout Giarratana

A pretty building

Sicilian beer at the grocery store

After a bit of relaxation, we headed out to the Grotta dei Santi.  I hope Glenn and Sue enjoyed it as much as I do.  If nothing else it was a nice walk in the country, no longer doubting ourselves as to where we would find the grotto.  Then a quick stop in town for some gelato.  

Sandy walking through the Sicilian country side

A bright and sunny day in this corner of Sicily

Sandy picked a bouquet of wild flowers to leave beneath the fresco in the grotto

Sandy and Glenn having a conversation outside the grotto

We ended the day with a nice pasta dinner that Glenn and Sue prepared for us.  

Glenn's pasta dish with pistachios

Dinner at the AirBnB