Island Hopping 2024: Rock of Gibraltar, Apes, Alameda Gardens

Today, our footsteps echo in the corridors of Gibraltar, a unique slice of British culture nestled at the crossroads of continents.  For us, a walk  through heights, history, and the harmonious blend of nature and tradition.

But, like every morning, first things first, we headed out in search of Sacarello’s Café for a coffee and crumpet.  I knew this was a Portuguese café so I was not surprised that they had Pastel de Nata.  I know that here in Gibraltar it may have been more appropriate to search out a scone.  But, really!?!  

The breakfast of Champions

Next, because I left my Tilley hat, somewhere in Morocco, Sandy was on a mission to get me a new one.  Finally in the bowels of some store on their main strip she found a replacement hat for me, not a Tilley, but still a nice one, and now feel much more completely dressed.

What would you expect in a British Overseas Territory

Some street views as we walked through town

Coming upon another little square

Gibraltars Cathedral

Legacy of past battles

King Charles V gate, the Spanish held this rock between the Moors and the British

Our true adventure now commenced at the iconic Rock of Gibraltar. We took the cable car to the “top of the rock”, catching glimpses of the Mediterranean's azure expanse at every turn. The Rock, as the locals refer to it, simply oozes with history.  So our ascent promised both an historical and scenic voyage. As we reached the summit, the sweeping views became a visual feast—a tapestry of sea and sky, where Europe meets Africa.

Our ride to the top

Just like the Prudential advertisements

This is how Sandy would have looked defending the Empire

A view of Morocco

A view of Spain

Some fortifications

The Flag of Gibraltar

The legend is that as long as the monkeys remain on Gibraltar so will the British. The British have embraced this legend for centuries, so much so that Churchill, in the throes of World War II, upon learning that the “ape” population was diminishing, secretly had more monkeys brought in from North Africa. The Barbary macaques have a twinkle in their eyes and a flair for the dramatic. These cheeky primates entertained us with one of their favorite antics, grooming little bugs off of each other. In the company of Gibraltar's apes, history feels alive, and the present takes on a mischievous charm.

A tailless Barbary Monday, oblivious to the dramatic scenery

They love to groom one another

Not all of the history is in the fortifications of the rock.  Our next stop unfolded a poignant chapter in Gibraltar's maritime history—the Trafalgar Cemetery. A peaceful resting place for those who sailed the seas during the Napoleonic wars, it spoke volumes of the naval legacy etched in the Rock's foundation. As we paid our respects, the whispers of the past reverberated in the sea breeze.

The tombstones of ancient warriors

If you must be buried, this is a pretty place

Final resting place of Captain M.T. Scott

The tombstones of lost gravesites

As the sun dipped low over the Mediterranean, casting a warm glow on the Rock of Gibraltar, we reflected on a day enriched by heights, history, and the soothing embrace of nature. Gibraltar unfolded as a destination where every moment is a step into the past, a dance with the present, and a promise of future tales.  And, my next tale, was that I was not going to leave England without having some fish and chips.  And, after that, a drink at “The Queen’s Picture House and Eatery” where we beside enjoying a late evening cocktail, we also spent time with a very pleasant couple on holiday from England, proper, Maggie and Will.  Upon hearing that he was an ex-policeman, Sandy excitedly blurted out “You’re a Billy”  He said “Yes, I am a Billy (extracted from William) but I think the word you were looking for is Bobby”  This is how it is when one travels-with-sandy.

 

Island Hopping 2024: Alhambra to Gibraltar

The only goal today was to travel from Alhambra to Gibraltar and we did it.  The drive out of Alhambra and Grenada was pretty much like the drive in, rolling hills and olive trees.  So many olive trees.  Sandy has taught me to appreciate olives, an acquired taste, at least for me, and I have been taking baby steps, but now being here in the midst of all these ancient olives forests I'm all in, 100%.  Gradually the hills again became mountains and the olive trees gave way.  Emerging at the coast the rugged terrain butted right up to the Mediterranean. This was a thrill for Sandy and me.  With all of our travel, this was the first time we saw the Mediterranean.  It was nice that we saw it at the same time.

Millions of olive trees

Our first view of the Mediterranean Sea

A quick snack on the road

Tunnels and viaducts as we approached Gibraltar

We came through a small pass in the hills and there was the Rock of Gibraltar unmistakable and huge right in front of us.  Having to wind through the Spanish town of La Línea de la Concepción and then pass through passport control (we were entering England after all), it still took about an hour to get to our AirBnB.

The Rock of Gibraltar from the auto

Today's trip

We spent the evening in our room which gave me time to research a little about the British history of Gibraltar.  Gibraltar itself is a rocky promontory guarding the entrance to the Mediterranean Sea and it has witnessed a tumultuous history marked by strategic importance and contested sovereignty.  

In 1704, during the War of the Spanish Succession, an Anglo-Dutch fleet captured Gibraltar from the Spanish. The Treaty of Utrecht in 1713 formally ceded Gibraltar to Britain, solidifying its status as a British Overseas Territory. The Rock's strategic location provided a commanding vantage point over crucial sea routes, which sea-faring England coveted.

Over the centuries, Gibraltar evolved into a formidable naval base and fortress. Its natural defenses, coupled with a labyrinthine network of tunnels inside the Rock and fortifications on and around it, rendered it virtually impregnable. The Royal Navy used Gibraltar as a crucial outpost, exerting influence over the Mediterranean.

Gibraltar's military significance persisted through the World Wars, with the Rock serving as a crucial naval base and airfield. Post-World War II, Gibraltar adapted to changing geopolitical dynamics. Despite occasional tensions with Spain over sovereignty, the Gibraltarians have consistently expressed their desire to remain under British rule through referendums.

Island Hopping 2024: Spain, Alhambra, Nasrid Palaces, Generalife Gardens, Alcazaba

One comes to this point on the face of the Earth to see one thing, Alhambra, with its Nasrid Palaces, Generalife Gardens and Alcazaba.  This Unesco World Heritage Site is remarkable, and it draws the crowds.  We came to Grenada deeply out of the tourist season and on the slowest day of the week.  Still, the tourists were numerous and the selfie takers uncountable (because, of course, the only way to improve the magnificent sights of Alhambra is to stand in front of them and take a picture of yourself).  A travel tip to myself is that if I ever do this again, schedule for the latest entrance possible, the crowds did tend to be a little smaller later in the day.

First we entered through the Courtyard of the Lions. We made our way to  the Nasrid Palaces. The Nasrids were the Moorish dynasty that built Alhambra in the 14th century.  The intricate stucco work and delicate calligraphy painted a portrait of a civilization that had mastered the art of turning dreams into stone.  Each room was a measure of opulence and grace. 

The courtyard of the Lions

An Arabian scene painted on a ceiling

Every window is interesting

A vaulted room and a bunch of tourists

Awesome

Windows everywhere

Water everywhere

We enjoyed even more the Generalife Gardens.  The name Generalife is rooted in the Arabic phrase “Jannat al-‘Arif” which means the Garden of the Master Architect.  The gardens were designed as a retreat and leisure space for the Muslim rulers, providing a serene and beautiful environment for relaxation and contemplation. The name reflects the appreciation for the artistry and architectural mastery involved in creating these gardens, showcasing the intricate design elements, water features, and landscaping that characterize all Islamic gardens.

Using the reflection in the water to enhance the garden plantings

Unending manicured hedges

A sculptured garden for the caliphs

Always using water as part of the design

A pleasant path in the Gardens

Hardscaping compliments the plantings 

A fountain in the Garden

How did they run all these fountains without electric pumps?

View of Nasrid Palaces and Alcazaba, from Generalife Gardens.  Note the trees in the foreground are trimmed to match the crenelated turrets of Alcazaba

And lastly Alcazaba: while the Palaces and Gardens were built for pleasure Alcazaba was built for battle.  It is the fortress designed to protect Alhambra.  From its ramparts we could see for miles in all directions.  Even today it looks impregnable but in 1492 it fell to King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella.  Nothing ever stays the same. 

The outside view of Alcazaba

Inner passageways of the fort

The enemy could be seen as soon as they came out of the snowy Sierra Nevadas

Inside the fort where the soldiers and guards bivouacked

Highest point on the fort

Cathedral in which lie King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella are entombed
 

We finished the night in the smaller of the two restaurants at the hotel.  After a month on the road we went for the All-American meal.

Cheeseburger, fries and a Coke.  It wouldn't be on the menu if they didn't want us to order it!